Adventure: Portland, ME

2021

After a long Covid winter we were ready to escape Vermont. We chose modestly but wisely, driving four hours to BTV’s sister city, Portland, for a long weekend. The breezy April weather was favorable and allowed us to walk (sadly, not ride) the city streets exploring and eating, sucking in fresh ocean air, reveling in the freedom to move around fairly freely (during this quieter period of Covid.) We stayed at the very cool Press Hotel at 119 Exchange Street, formerly the Portland Press Herald. The hotel is chic, clean, and comfortable with writer’s whimsies everywhere you look. I was in heaven checking out the old typewriters, text-style wallpaper, writer’s nooks, beautiful art, and fun artifacts like the giant scale in the very nice gym.

We walked everywhere in town, starting first at the Waterfront’s Standard Baking Company, probably one of our favorite bakeries ever (and we’ve sampled a lot of them—bakeries are our museums!) The incredible quality of the ingredients combined with creative artisan talent, melded perfectly with the ambience of this Old Port District building to create delectable European-style baked goods. Sitting outside in the sun, eating with other humans nearby, I felt like I was coming alive again after a long hibernation.

One of our long-time favorite restaurants is located just above the bakery—Fore Street—which we first discovered on a trip in 1997. Chef Sam Heyward and company has been attracting devotees from across the country since 1996, and it was a pleasure to return. Known for its wood-burning oven, grill and turnspit, the restaurant offers diners a variety of incredible seafood, meats, game, and vegetable dishes with an ever-changing menu. Fore Street is exactly the kind of restaurant I love: locally sourced and hand crafted food that is inspired but earthy, an authentically welcoming and comfortable atmosphere, great people, and a sexy buzz in the air.

There are darling boutique shops on every street in Portland and many welcoming galleries to scout. I especially loved Guven Designs for the beautiful array of ceramics, rugs, and jewelry. I purchased a gorgeous pair of handmade earrings that have been my ‘go-to’ ever since. The gallery owner is also the artist behind the works, and is so gracious and humble. CBA Art (Casco Bay Artisans) is so fun to tour and to talk to some of the artists. Every medium is in evidence, and we especially loved the sculpture. Located right on the water, the gallery is beautifully integrated into the environment.

No trip to Portland would be complete without a nice long walk on the beautiful oceanfront bike path—jump right on at the Waterfront. Fuel up first with a maple bacon donut and coffee at Holy Donut and afterward, head to Kitchen for an excellent lobster roll, fries, and a beer.