Delectable December
2022
The holidays are right around the corner and visitors with food preferences from A-Z will be joining us for Christmas Eve. I like to serve an array of desserts that appeal to each of my loved ones, but are also simple enough for me to do-ahead. Decadent Basque Burnt Cheesecake and heart-healthy Pistachio Olive Oil Cake (V) fill the bill, especially when they are served with a festive side of fruit compote.
For my compote, I adapted Yotam Ottolenghi’s Sumac Berries recipe and it’s perfect for my ice cream and yogurt eaters, too. Sumac adds a wonderful acidity, brightness, and color to any dish, so give it a whirl. I make a big batch of the berries to last all week. To streamline the baking process I take some extra care with my mise en place: this is a fancy way of saying prep all the damn ingredients ahead! Try it, and you too will be on your way to creating some delectable treats that deserve a place in your forever files.
Mixed Berry Topping
This is a very flexible recipe, so feel free to improvise. In a food processor combine 1-cup each slightly thawed (frozen) pitted cherries, blueberries, and strawberries. Add one-half cup of maple syrup; 1½-Tablespoons fresh lime juice; and 1-2 Tablespoons powdered sumac (to taste). Pulse until just slushy, 6-8 pulses. In a large bowl combine 2-cups each of FRESH blackberries, blueberries, diced strawberries and raspberries. Pour the berry purée over the fruit and stir gently. Store in fridge for up to a week. To serve, rest at room temperature for an hour; squeeze a little fresh lime over the berries, then gently fold together. For an extra festive look, top with any combination of pomegranate seeds, chopped pistachio nuts, and ribbons of fresh mint.
Basque Burnt Cheesecake
I went bonkers for this cake on a recent trip to Spain. On my first try stateside, I found this Basque Burnt Cheesecake recipe by Jenna Barnard, the talented baker and photographer behind the Butternut Bakery blog. It is simple to follow and replicates my food memory perfectly. Do not be put off by the parchment paper and 9” springform pan, or the long bake at a high temperature—it’s easy to execute. Note that this is an intentionally burnt cheesecake which provides a bitter outer layer and extra creamy inside; in baking Color=Flavor. If you are not ready to serve your cake after it cools, let it set in the fridge—there’s a lot of dairy in there, and you want to serve safely. For maximum enjoyment add a generous dollop of Sumac Berries on the side. Enjoy this process, it’s a trip to San Sebastián in your mouth!
2-pounds (four 8 ounce blocks) of full fat cream cheese, at room temperature
1 ½-cups (300g) granulated sugar
5- large eggs, room temperature
1- tsp vanilla extract
1¾- cups (420g) heavy cream
1- tsp salt
¼- cup (33g) all-purpose flour
optional: 1-teaspoon cardamom (or spice of choice)
Preheat the oven to 400F and butter the inside of a 9″ springform pan.
Press two layers of parchment paper into the bottom and up the sides. They should stick up about 2 inches above the edge of the pan.
Cream together the cream cheese and sugar on medium low speed using a hand or stand mixer with the paddle attachment.
Mix in the eggs one at a time on low speed and then the vanilla.
Pour the heavy cream in a slow and steady stream while the mixer is on low speed. Once smooth, sift in your flour and salt and fold to combine.
Bake for 60-65 minutes or until the top is completely burnt and it has a slight jiggle to it.
Let it cool to room temperature for about an hour then remove from the pan and slice. You can also leave it in the pan and place it in the fridge for several hours to completely set. Serve with Sumac Berries on the side; serves 10.
Pistachio Olive Oil Cake (V)
I stumbled on this gem of a recipe when I was in a hurry one day, and I almost didn’t try it. Because it is a very moist vegan cake and can handle a vast array of spice, nut, and flour combinations, it has become my entertaining favorite. I suggest you go crazy experimenting. I adapted this superb recipe from Chenée Lewis of Chenée Today by changing the flour combinations and flavorings. You may want to read the original recipe first, including the nutritional information—her site is a treasure trove of information.
Preheat oven to 350F. Spray a 9” springform pan with baking spray and line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the following:
2-T orange zest
1-c sugar
½-cup good quality olive oil (I use Costco’s extra virgin)
2-T toasted pistachio oil
¼-c unsweetened applesauce
⅔-c non-dairy milk (I use Ripple)
2-T fresh orange juice
1-t vanilla
1-t cardamom, ½-teaspoon clove
Sift the following into the batter and fold together until just combined:
¾ c- white whole wheat flour (or white flour)
¾ c-spelt (or einkorn flour)
1 ½ t-baking powder
½ t- baking soda
½ t- salt
Transfer batter into the prepared pan and bake until inserted toothpick comes out clean 40-45 minutes. Cool cake for 10 minutes; pour the glaze all over the cake. Let it soak in and cool completely for an hour or two, then gently release the cake from the pan and set on a decorative serving plate. Do-ahead two days: simply wrap in the cake in plastic and leave at room temperature.
Pistachio-Orange Cake Glaze
Whisk together 1-t toasted pistachio oil, 2-T orange juice, and 1-cups powdered sugar. Pour all over the cake. Top with crushed pistachio nuts and orange zest. Serve with sumac berries on the side. Fresh blackberries and sugared orange slices also look gorgeous on this cake! Serves 8.
Wishing all of my wonderful readers a magical holiday filled with some decadence! I’d love to hear from you—feel free to send your comments to me.